Lodging
Wilder Mann, Passau (011-49- 851-3-5071; www.wilder-mann. com). The characterful old town's oldest hotel.
Ruze, Cesky Krumlov (011- 420-380-772- 100; www. hotelruze.cz). Memorable views.
Celerin, Telc (011- 420-567-243- 477; www. hotelcelerin.cz). Great location; excellent value.
Hotel Pariz, Prague (011-420-222-195-195; www.hotel-pariz.cz). Art nouveau ambience.
Do/don't
Do visit Passau's fabulously ornate baroque cathedral, where the world's largest organ has 17,774 pipes.
Do contact Evzen Majoros at www.old-timers.cz, and arrange to explore Prague in one of his vintage cars.
Don't try to speak Czech before drinking some of the country's excellent beer.
Eat & drink
Restaurant Passauer Wolf, Passau (011-49- 851-9-31-5110). Views of the brown-not blue-Danube.
Black Eagle, Telc (011-420-567-243-222). Soup, trout, schnitzel in the beautiful old town's heart.
Fleku Pub, Prague (011-420-224-934-01920; www. ufleku.cz). Bar, restaurant, and historic brewery.
Learn more
Czech Tourist Office, 1109-11 Madison Avenue, New York, New York 10028 (212-288-0830, www.czechtourism.com).
A Rough Guide book covers the Czech and Slovak republics (www. roughguides.com).
The Prague Post is in English (www.praguepost.com).
What we drove
Muscular, high-tech turbo-diesels are popular in Europe for their very low fuel consumption. We used a top-of-the-range Audi A3 with the refined 2.0-liter TDI engine (140 hp, 236 lb-ft) and a six-speed gearbox. The long-legged hatchback cruised at a virtually silent 100 mph on the autobahn. Wood, leather, and chrome made the Audi seem like a compact limo.